Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Antonio Citterio Architect & Designer

John K Lindgren

Antonio Citterio Architect & Designer

Mamma Mia those Italians! We know their passionate sense of style through Armani, Beretta, Bvlgari, (Bulgari), Cappucino, D&G, Espresso, Ferrari, Ferragamo, Gucci, Lamborghini, Lavazza, Prada and Zegna.

And Citterio? Antonio Citterio? ll maestro, the global architect & industrial designer Signore Citterio who recently visited Bangkok during of his Asia whirlwind tour.

Antonio Citterio’s Bangkok stopover coincided with him presiding at the grand opening of the Bangkok B&B Italia flagship high-end furniture store in Thonglor town and a sold out lecture at the Sukhothai hotel where we met him in the morning.

Dressed in a grey cool wool suit and polo shirt. There is an air of friendly curiosity about Citterio.

“I was born in Meda, near Milan my father was a cabinet maker, an artisan and I became an architect”. he says.
The 1950s, the post war era when Italian architecture, fashion, industrial design, ‘neo realism’ cinema, the pocket-sized Fiat Cinquecento 500 and the revolutionary Vespa scooter created a new powerful wave of the “Made in Italy” style.

Antonio Citterio graduated with a degree in architecture from Milan’s polytechnic university. In 1972 he started his architectural and interior design company.

“ Media made me a designer, a stylist. But I’m an architect, first and foremost,” Antonio Citterio clips as he orders Pellegrino, Italian mineral water, of course.

This is the man who prefers not be called a designer - yet he has designed/created everything from the ergonomic Finnish Iittala cutlery to the Antonio Citterio Technogym, the Grohe single lever basin mixer for the bathroom, furniture: B & B Italy, Maxalto and other brands enough to fill warehouses.

But, also apartment buildings, factories, private villas and a ueber chic boutique hotels around the world were created at his drawing board.
His chef-d'oeuvre hotel job is the Bvlgari property in Milano, a super exclusive inner city garden hotel. “This is where I like to taste my morning cappuccino and read the newspaper – on my way to my office” he says.

Long term, intense client relationships are key to Citterio. This we can see clearly with his B & B Italy association. “Our marriage has lasted for 27 years”, says Cittario laughingly.

Regarding the future Citterio, says: “I would like to design buildings that aren’t corrupted by commercial interests, public spaces a church or a museum. When you design a house, it's no longer yours when the people move in. But with a museum or a church, the space still exists for you”.
And lastly on Asian architecture / design he explains, ” it is just the beginning it will grow when big industry decides it wants to create innovation and not just manufacture copies - but first it will need a change of spirit”.

If you want to look at Antonio Citterio’s limited edition furniture, sofas, arm chairs and other objects head for B & B Italy showroom (gallery) location: Sukhumvit Thonglor Soi Sip.

END TEXT

Timeless Luxury or Pre-Owned Swiss Horology

John K Lindgren

Timeless Luxury or Pre-Owned Swiss Horology

Fed up with the el-cheapo Patpong ‘LOLEX’ replicas – can’t yet afford the real McCoy - try an authentic pre-owned Rolex of Geneva.


For many, buying a second-hand car, home or even an electric appliance is a common transaction. But when it comes to luxury items, the general assumption is that the brand new is the best. For aficionados in the know, however this couldn't be further from the truth, with a growing number of people setting their sights on used hand or pre-owned luxury wrist watches.

In our helter-skelter world on innovation and rapid change, more and more discerning customers want to own a timepiece that represents something more traditional and has lasting value.

" Some people buy them as an show-off investment", says Somsak Naranong, owner of three Swiss Ulysse Nardin chronographs, "but other people simply want to own a piece of history, something that lasts and has meaning".

For some, movie memories come with the watches for example when they see a heavy duty Rolex Submariner, which Dustin Hoffman traded for a yellow NYC cab fare in the 70s Hollywood thriller Marathon Man. maybe it's Cindy Crawford displaying an Omega Constellation Quadra on the pages of a thick glossy international lifestyle magazine. Or perhaps Bruce Willis wearing a TAG Heuer in the action ‘shoot-them-up’ blockbuster Die Hard 2

Surprisingly, these vintage time pieces are not that hard to find - and we're not talking about the fakes, the "replicas" that can be found on countless Bangkok street stalls. Right here in the city there's a second hand luxury watch shop that can hold its own against the best shops in Britain, France and the US.

It's called Leng Narikaa ( Narika means "watch" in Thai), and its housed in a non-descript two story shop house opposite Khao San Road, in Banglampoo “backpacker” Lonely Planet area.


"Leng narikaa" is home to a vast array of pre-owned, internationally recognized, coveted brands such as Chopard, Cartier, Breitling, IWC, Omega, Patek Philippe, Panerai and, of course, the leader of the pack, Rolex of Geneva - and most for less than half of their original purchasing price.

"Many Thais buy second hand watches like Rolex because they are cheaper than buying them new,: says Kasemsit Pathomsak, a Bangkok real estate and hotel owner. "But other purchase them for their investment value. Fine watches, especially mechanical watches always appreciate in value".

The Leng Watch Group (LWG), a family owned Sino-Thai company, was founded in 1976 by Mr S. Leng. Their Leng Narikaa showroom and service center area is startlingly bright with elegant teak wood floors.

It's almost like entering a golden palace. No music, just precious metals and alloys: white, pink, yellow, and rose gold and there's titanium, platinum and polished stainless steel. Glittering gems and diamonds embossed on solid watch cases sparkle. Display cabinets are filled with row after row of glimmering shiny Rolex wristwatches. Security is provided two fit and stern looking uniformed and armed guards plus close circuit TV cameras.


If you're interested in the golden age of Swiss luxury watch making try an Audemars Piquet in pink gold. Founded in 1875 by two Swiss engineers, Jules Louis Audermars and Edward August Piquet. The watch connoisseurs call it "AP" for short. The brand is known for their complicated calendar, repeat mechanisms, “tourbillions” and chronographs. Price range THB 400,000 up depending on the complications.

"The best selling time pieces here," says Namkaang, Leng Narikaa shop manager, "are still the solid gold Rolexes and the two-tone or 'half-gold' models. “The two-tone Rolex is popular among the Thai ladies as well as Breitling” explains Namkaang.

Rolexes comprise 80 percent of the displayed watches. But the shop also carries the great models that were linked to war and sport and are still in manufactured today - the classic square Cartier Tank originally from 1917, the legendary Omega Speed master, the over sized Italian navy Panerai Luminor, TAG Heur Carrera, named after the “Panamericana” South American road-race of the 50s. - IWC (International Watch Company) Second World War big pilot watch "Fliegerchronograph" and, of course, Rolex Submariner, the iconic "James Bond Rolex" robust, mechanical and still going strong.

Many of Leng Narika's watches are as "good as new" such as the entry level steel Rolex Steel Oyster Date just at THB 91. 000 with a 12 month warranty. And in case you want to trade your Steel Oyster in for a solid yellow gold Oyster Datejust, Leng will trade your steel Rolex for 90 percent of the purchased value and you hand over another THB 220.000 and you're the owner of heavy golden Rolex, the ultimate piece for the ethnic Chinese taokay - boss. A gold Rolex on the wrist and a grey Mercedes (not BMW!) in the garage.

The next step on the ladder is the diamond encrusted gold Rolex, a cool half a million THB.

Business is good, in spite of the economic downturn and political uncertainty.

Two years ago Leng opened its flagship store on Petchburi road next to Pantip Plaza computer wholesale centre. This elegant second-hand haute horology showroom-cum-boutique stands up to any of the Emporium, Gaysorn or Siam Paragon high end watch boutiques.

Some international and local movie stars are also customers. It has been rumored that Nicholas Cage was seen purchasing a vintage Vacheron Constantin while Thai soap opera stars “Marsha” Wattanapanich and “Sam” Yurarnan Pamornmontri are regular Leng customers.

And while you won't find any fakes here, when it comes to payment, Leng takes the same approach as its street-based counterparts. "We don't accept credit cards. Cash only", says Namkaang".

And on her wrist I see the metallic glimmer of a two-tone 'date just' lady Rolex chronograph.

END TEXT

Sofotel or Sofitel?


John K Lindgren


A French 5-star resort, a Swedish GM and a US built 310” Sundancer

“Do you know “Sofotel”? A co-worker of mine asked me referring to the French hotel brand. “You mean “So-fi-tel” - I amended kindly.

Sofitel is Accor’s ‘creme-de-la-crème’ luxury product. Yours truly recently experienced the colonial, grande dame in Sofitel, Hua Hin and in 2007 Monsieur Lindgren checked-in at Sofitel La Cloche in Dijon, the French mustard city. I can only say: the Sofitel’s are so ‘fveeery’ French and très fan-tas-ti-que! And they have superb fromage (cheese), too!

And voila! Did you know? There is now a Sofitel in Krabi province by the warm Andaman sea which during the 80s was a sleepy Lonely Planet backpacker beach destination

In 2007 the five-star Sofitel Phokeethra “pokk-it-ra” Krabi Resort & Spa was inaugurated featuring 276 rooms laid out in two separate wings not higher than three storey’s each room providing views of the limestone islands and the sea. The resort is located on the private Klong Muang beach, only a short drive from Ao Nang shore and Krabi town.

The culinary ( the “F & B”) department boasts three restaurants, five bars including the al fresco Hemingway Bar stocked with Havana cigars, French cognac and Jamaican Rum. The pool is Krabi’s biggest’s freeform swimming bath measuring 7,000 square meter. And for your health (anti-aging) there is a fitness club and ‘Le Spa’ with aromatherapy and spiritual de-compression.

All important elements of resort indulgence are included - but where is the yacht? (Ernest Hemingway would have asked).
A fast and luxurious motor yacht. A must for ocean swimming & snorkeling, for sunset dinners, Andaman weddings and deep sea fishing, too.
But look again! There at anchor is a real American tut-tut 310 Sundancer yacht, a shining craft, styled in cutting edge modern maritime architecture with a solid targa arch on top of the bridge.
The Sundancer is a high-volume 10.16m (33ft) overall craft with a cruising speed of 38 knots per hour (for you land lubbers that’s 70 kph).
Looking speedy and powerful with fine lines and a deep bow designed to cleave the waves and cast the spray aside.
Down below there is a stateroom with solid-wood dining table and opposite to starboard a sofa that converts to a double bed.

The galley is well equipped, including a stove, an eye-level microwave oven, the important espresso machine and a refrigerator for the Dom Pérignon bubbly. On-board entertainment comes with a LCD flat screen 15” and a premium Bose audio surround sound system secured to the bulkhead.

According to the General Manager Mr. Ove Sandstrom, the 310 Sundancer will set a new standard of the luxury in five-star resort market in Thailand.

“The Phokeethra yacht will give us an opportunity to increase our high end market share as well as the wedding and honeymoon markets”, says Mr. Ove Sandstrom the Swedish born GM who almost looks like a real commander in his white officer's outfit. The Phokeethra yacht is ship shape and ready to sail to the surrounding islands; the Poda, the Hong, Chicken, and Tup and islands.
“ I recommend the four island charter cruise” explains GM Sandstrom.

“Our yacht offers various luxurious indulgency cruises which suit 4-5 persons for a half day and a full day program for two persons with overnight stay. Including the highlight the wedding cruise.” Sandstrom continues, “which comes with a captain, a butler and a hostess complete with a moonlight dinner on your own private beach”. And the music “My Heart Will Go On” (RMS Titanic song) “clips GM Ove Sandstrom who previously was at the helm of Sofitel Seminyak Bali – Indonesia.

Sofitel Phokeethra “pokk-it-ra” Krabi Resort & Spa has certainly given a new significance to the definition five star luxury resort; the 310 Sundancer yacht.


END TEXT

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Italian design Mama Mia...

Antonio Citterio Architect & Designer


Mamma Mia those Italians! We know their passionate sense of style through Armani, Beretta, Bvlgari, (Bulgari), Cappucino, D&G, Espresso, Ferrari, Ferragamo, Gucci, Lamborghini, Lavazza, Prada and Zegna.

And Citterio? Antonio Citterio? ll maestro, the global architect & industrial designer Signore Citterio who recently visited Bangkok during of his Asia whirlwind tour.
Antonio Citterio’s Bangkok stopover coincided with him presiding at the grand opening of the Bangkok B&B Italia flagship high-end furniture store in Thonglor town and a sold out lecture at the Sukhothai hotel where we met him in the morning.
Dressed in a grey cool wool suit and polo shirt. There is an air of friendly curiosity about Citterio.
“I was born in Meda, near Milan my father was a cabinet maker, an artisan and I became an architect”. he says.
The 1950s, the post war era when Italian architecture, fashion, industrial design, ‘neo realism’ cinema, the pocket-sized Fiat Cinquecento 500 and the revolutionary Vespa scooter created a new powerful wave of the “Made in Italy” style.
Antonio Citterio graduated with a degree in architecture from Milan’s polytechnic university. In 1972 he started his architectural and interior design company.
“ Media made me a designer, a stylist. But I’m an architect, first and foremost,” Antonio Citterio clips as he orders Pellegrino, Italian mineral water, of course.

This is the man who prefers not be called a designer - yet he has designed/created everything from the ergonomic Finnish Iittala cutlery to the Antonio Citterio Technogym, the Grohe single lever basin mixer for the bathroom, furniture: B & B Italy, Maxalto and other brands enough to fill warehouses.
But, also apartment buildings, factories, private villas and a ueber chic boutique hotels around the world were created at his drawing board.
His chef-d'oeuvre hotel job is the Bvlgari property in Milano, a super exclusive inner city garden hotel. “This is where I like to taste my morning cappuccino and read the newspaper – on my way to my office” he says.
Long term, intense client relationships are key to Citterio. This we can see clearly with his B & B Italy association. “Our marriage has lasted for 27 years”, says Cittario laughingly.

Regarding the future Citterio, says: “I would like to design buildings that aren’t corrupted by commercial interests, public spaces a church or a museum. When you design a house, it's no longer yours when the people move in. But with a museum or a church, the space still exists for you”.
And lastly on Asian architecture / design he explains, ” it is just the beginning it will grow when big industry decides it wants to create innovation and not just manufacture copies - but first it will need a change of spirit”.
If you want to look at Antonio Citterio’s limited edition furniture, sofas, arm chairs and other objects head for B & B Italy showroom (gallery) location: Sukhumvit Thonglor Soi Sip.

END TEXT

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Kari Voutilainen Horology

John K. Lindgren

VOUTILAINEN Watch Price: THB 2,5 million

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Kari Voutilainen. Say it again, please… Ka-ri Vou-ti-lai-nen. This Finn, hails from Lapland, the immense hinterland within the arctic circle in Finland. He is a double certified watchmaker and a member of the select Swiss Haute Horologie ('hoote horro-lo-schiee') guild with many esteemed old French/Swiss watchmakers such as: Audemars Piquet, Blancpain, Brequet, Chopard, Girard Perregaux, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

This writer recently met Voutilainen on his first to Bangkok visit where three of his masterpieces were displayed at the exclusive Gaysorn "Art of Time" exhibition.
Voutilainen is a dedicated, independent horologer of the old school, making handcrafted, exceedingly expensive and complex mechanical watches that are a wonder to behold. Meeting him in the hotel lobby I am reminded of Peter Sellers.... but a more affable, modest and relaxed Sellers.
Voutilainen, 46, had a keen interest in mechanical things and moving parts, cogs and wheels as a young boy.

"We had a family friend who owned the only watch shop in town and I was quite often over there as my watch was always broken". And he adds "I also took apart some big pendulum chime wall clock's and sometimes I could not reassemble them again! And I managed to dismantle cars and motorbikes as well."
Later in his youth he realized he wanted to do two things: "I wanted to do something with my hands, and I wanted to be independent."
After receiving his high school diploma he completed his watchmaker's training at the famous Kelloseppäkoulu, the Finnish school of watchmaking near Helsinki.

In his 20s he worked in the Finnish-Swedish small border town Ylätornio repairing digital alarm clocks, wristwatches, grandfather and cuckoo clocks and in 89 Voutilainen's passion for complicated watches led him to the leading international watchmaking school in the world: the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP) in Neuchâtel, Switzerland.

Here the precocious student was quickly spotted and hired by Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps, one of Switzerland's premier manufacturer's of Haute Horology. There he learned to master micro-mechanical engineering, and execute very demanding restoration jobs of some of the world's rarest time pieces, as well as the creation of new and original limited edition (piece unique) masterpieces. Alongside his professional work, Voutilainen devoted himself, through many long evenings alone in his basement, like the craftsmen of yore, to developing his own unique machines.

In 2002 Voutinainen went solo and opened his own atelier situated in the tranquil village of Môtiers at the foot of the Jura mountains near Switzerland's French border, the very heart of Swiss mechanical watchmaking. Here the Finn started a 'one-man' manufactory, of the old style, where the horologer does everything from A to Z, with painstaking precision, with the loupe glued to his eye. No place for robots and computers here!

A case in point is his minute repeater watches with a miniscule set of hammer and gong, which according to Voutilainen " should ring loudly and have a crystal clear sound". He elaborates, "I don't like watching TV in my free time I rather spend it in my workshop". On the new generation of watchmakers he laments, " they know very well how to manipulate a computer mouse - but nothing at all about using a pivot file" .
As watchmakers are sometimes also collectors I ask him about his own private collection. "In the 90s in Finland I bought a Glashutte tourbillion, escarpment model for EUR 1.200 the masterpiece was broken and dilapidated I repaired it and today it is worth over EUR 24.000". Another restoration job was a Patek Philippe split chronograph wrist watch (circa 1945). It was transformed from a dead watch to mint condition vintage luxury item, ticking softly.

Voutilainens watch cogniscienti can be found in Finland, Japan, Spain, and Singapore. "My annual production is limited to a dozen pieces," says Voutilainen. On his wrist I see a Voutilainen Chronometer. A stunning, rectangular dress watch in white gold with steelly blue frosted finish sporting three dials. It screams elegance. In it, Voutilainen hosted a forgotten vintage movement the 'Caliber 27' a mechanism created solely for observatory trials and never commercialized. Looking at it through the transparent sapphire glass back I was mesmerized by the complicated and beautiful movement.

Last year Voutilainen's remarkable 'OBSERVATOIRE' chronometer won the coveted Grand Prix d'Horologie de Geneve 2007 in the men's watch category. You can hear the distinct clear chimes of the minute repeater just click-on to www.youtube.com type: `Kari Voutilainen' and listen.

END TEXT

Italian designer Antonio Cittario

Antonio Citterio Architect & Designer


Mamma Mia those Italians! We know their passionate sense of style through Armani, Beretta, Bvlgari, (Bulgari), Cappucino, D&G, Espresso, Ferrari, Ferragamo, Gucci, Lamborghini, Lavazza, Prada and Zegna.

And Citterio? Antonio Citterio? ll maestro, the global architect & industrial designer Signore Citterio who recently visited Bangkok during of his Asia whirlwind tour.
Antonio Citterio’s Bangkok stopover coincided with him presiding at the grand opening of the Bangkok B&B Italia flagship high-end furniture store in Thonglor town and a sold out lecture at the Sukhothai hotel where we met him in the morning.
Dressed in a grey cool wool suit and polo shirt. There is an air of friendly curiosity about Citterio.
“I was born in Meda, near Milan my father was a cabinet maker, an artisan and I became an architect”. he says.
The 1950s, the post war era when Italian architecture, fashion, industrial design, ‘neo realism’ cinema, the pocket-sized Fiat Cinquecento 500 and the revolutionary Vespa scooter created a new powerful wave of the “Made in Italy” style.
Antonio Citterio graduated with a degree in architecture from Milan’s polytechnic university. In 1972 he started his architectural and interior design company.
“ Media made me a designer, a stylist. But I’m an architect, first and foremost,” Antonio Citterio clips as he orders Pellegrino, Italian mineral water, of course.

This is the man who prefers not be called a designer - yet he has designed/created everything from the ergonomic Finnish Iittala cutlery to the Antonio Citterio Technogym, the Grohe single lever basin mixer for the bathroom, furniture: B & B Italy, Maxalto and other brands enough to fill warehouses.
But, also apartment buildings, factories, private villas and a ueber chic boutique hotels around the world were created at his drawing board.
His chef-d'oeuvre hotel job is the Bvlgari property in Milano, a super exclusive inner city garden hotel. “This is where I like to taste my morning cappuccino and read the newspaper – on my way to my office” he says.
Long term, intense client relationships are key to Citterio. This we can see clearly with his B & B Italy association. “Our marriage has lasted for 27 years”, says Cittario laughingly.

Regarding the future Citterio, says: “I would like to design buildings that aren’t corrupted by commercial interests, public spaces a church or a museum. When you design a house, it's no longer yours when the people move in. But with a museum or a church, the space still exists for you”.
And lastly on Asian architecture / design he explains, ” it is just the beginning it will grow when big industry decides it wants to create innovation and not just manufacture copies - but first it will need a change of spirit”.
If you want to look at Antonio Citterio’s limited edition furniture, sofas, arm chairs and other objects head for B & B Italy showroom (gallery) location: Sukhumvit Thonglor Soi Sip.

END TEXT

Friday, June 27, 2008

HAM HAM HAMBURG

The Hamburg Port Festival 2008 by John K. Lindgren


On my first visit to Hamburg in the early 70s, I had gazed at the majestic ocean liners with their towering, black smokestacks and smelled the salt air of the Elbe river that leads to sea and has carried all kinds of vessels to the Hanseatic port down the centuries. It was an awesome panorama, and for one in whom the sap was still rising, powerful enough to fill with lifelong deep wanderlust… I am now live in the Far East and revisiting Hamburg this summer was more than nostalgic. Flying from Bangkok "Turk Hava Yollari" IATA code name TK Turkish Airlines provides one of the fastest routes from Bangkok to Hamburg via Istanbul. Turkish Airlines, since April 2008 a proud member of Star Alliance flies daily to Turkey, Istanbul. Departure Bangkok BKK around midnight with early morning arrival at the Ataturk airport in Istanbul IST which is a modern new international airport boasting a Starbucks, two large bookstores and brand name boutiques galore. And sweet Turkish delight candy, of course. After a three hour pleasant day flight with a beautiful bird's eye view of Europe you arrive in HAM at noon. Hamburg is today Germany's second largest city with a population of 1.76 million, and over two million trees - and a Greenpeace office by the waterfront, just to protect the tree population and the air and the water. It was mid May – spring was gone and everything seemed bathed in summery sunshine. With city parks and gardens filled with birdsong and a youthful spring in the pedestrians' step. No matter where you turn in Hamburg, there seems to be water ......So it is no wonder that there are in all more bridges here than in Amsterdam, London and Venice - put together! Besides the great Elbe river there is the Inner and Outer Alster Hamburgs two manmade lakes almost in the middle of downtown and canals, all interconnected and crisscrossed by those bridges. To a lot of visitors it comes as a surprise to learn that this port is actually situated inland, located downriver almost 100 kilometers from the Elbe river's mouth on the North Sea, between Denmark and Holland. Strolling through the streets it was hard not to feel the excitement of the 819th "Hamburg Hafenfestival" or the Hamburg Port Festival that was to unfold within hours. The annual Hafenfestival" or the harbour birthday party" is a four-day tribute to Hamburg's long maritime past. The annual extravaganza celebrates with justifiable pomp, the port's glorious history and spirit. This prosperous Hanseatic city is commonly known as "HH" in German as "haa-haa" Hansestadt Hamburg. The locals are proud of their place in history and the city's contribution to Germany and Europe and the world. The football aficionados know that Hamburg hosted the FIFA World Cup in 2006. Their home team Rothosen ("Red Shorts") or Hamburger Sport-Verein e.V is currently in the fourth place in the Bundesliga. Today the maritime city not only has a state-of-the-art port container port, second largest in Europe after Rotterdam and Germany's media center, by far being the home to an astounding 13,000 on-line and off-line companies; among them the respected Der Spiegel publishing group, Deutsche Presse Agentur (dpa), and Axel Springer Group's "BILD" newspapers. All that aside, Hamburg was the birthplace of the iconic haute couture, uber fashion designer Karl "white ponytail" Lagerfeldt, the Joop and Jil Sander designer brands. While the Mont Blanc, high-end writing instruments and horology manufacturer is another world famous "Made in Hamburg" brand. And lastly, who does not know the blue iconic tins of Nivea cream? They were first manufactured in Hamburg by the Beiersdorf family to protect skins all over the planet. Among the historic buildings in Hamburg - and there are so many - is the neo-renaissance Kaiser Wilhelm "Emperor's Hauptbahnhof" (Main Railway Station) from 1906, the The Chilehaus (Chile House) is a ten-story 1920s office building of brick architecture with strong maritime elements another must-see, as is the infamous Reeperbahn, in the naughty St Pauli district. Walking along same at day's end, we were jostled along by tourists and locals alike. Once a seedy smorgasbord of hardcore dives catering mainly to sailors, sexy entertainment it is now a legend providing a vibrant, attractive nightlife scene with theatres and cabarets, galleries, discotheques, bars and clubs the all embellished with blue and red bright neon tubes. And who in the world could possibly walk on the Reeperbahn, and not remember the Fab Four from another historic European port Liverpool? Inevitably, one young female journalist clipped: "well, the Beatles were born here a 50 years ago – right?" Yes. John Lennon once said: "the Beatles did not become big in Liverpool but in Hamburg". Their last Hamburg gig was in 1961 at Star Club. But it is the Port of Hamburg, "die Hafen", the docks, the gigantic engine which propels the second largest container port in Europe smoothly operated by 14 giant computer controlled container gantry cranes and unmanned vehicles loading and discharging around 9,5 million standard TEU containers boxes per year. On Friday May 9th, the opening day of the festival Hamburgians were blessed with clear, deep azure skies, cumulus clouds and warm summer breeze full of promise. The auspicious event was welcomed with a long weekend as the following Monday was a bank holiday. So four days of festivities flowed like lager on tap..... The 2008 festival was inaugurated by Ole von Beust the First Mayor of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg and the guest of honour was the first lady President of Finland, Mrs. Tarja Halonen. The Finnish navy was present with their flagship, the sleek grey minelayer m/s Pohjanmaa flying a full set of multicoloured signal flags. The entire VIP entourage, including the local dignitaries, decorated naval officers and invited members of the press were raising their champagne flutes on the poop deck of the tall, sleek green and crimson red hulled three-masted windjammer, Rickmer Rickmeers. This magnificent Cape Horn class sailing vessel is now a museum and a symbol of Hamburg's significant past as the home of the tall, fast sailing ships; the legendary "Flying P-Liners" and the majestic Hapag-Lloyd ocean steamers outward bound for Buenos Aires, New York and Montevideo. The 2008 maritime festival attracted more than 1.6 million visitors and 300 vessels, ranging from a compact grey pocket submarine to pleasure boats of every size and configuration; and most striking of all, three handsome Dutch North Sea sailing schooners with hoisted main sails and topsails bellowing. They were a sight to behold! Ship ohoy! And the stars of the show the and Russian naval cadet windjammers, the Mir, the Sedov and the biggest of them all the black and white majestic four-masted bark Kruzensthern (built in 1926 in Bremen) ex Padua which was one of fastest the "Flying P-Liners" of Laeisz company. Carl Heinrich Laeisz also consigned a generous testamentary sum for the construction of"a dignified place for the exertion and enjoyment of noble and serious music" - the Laeiszhalle from 1908 in neo-baroque red brick architecture. The ubiquitous strong workhorses of the port, the harbour tugboats and the 6,000 horsepower ocean tugboats performed their much appreciated "schlepperballet" the tug boat ballet, a veritable heavyweight boat dance with 180 degree turns on the water accompanied by a crescendo of deep baritone klaxons over the sparkling waves. The airspace above the Elbe river was also alive, with planes and helicopters buzzing around in the afternoon sun. The fighter jets of the Hamburg squadron executing pure aeronautics, loops and swirls with seemingly effortless ease.And a supreme vintage passenger aircraft: the piston propeller triple engine Lufthansa Junkers 52 (model 1944) "Tante Ju"or "Auntie Ju" flew graciously and slowly back and forth across the Elbe river. After the sun went down, bathing the whole scene in pale orange glow it was time to go below deck of the s/s Rickmer Rickmers, where the Captain's dinner consisting of North Sea crustaceans, German fresh asparagus, veal, new summer potatoes and hind beer terrine for dessert and Schneider Weissburgunder white wine. Black-and-white clad waiters hurried with large trays with along long tables in a manner reminiscent of the glory days of luxury sea voyages..... The grand finale of the evening then unfolded in the sky. This was the "feuerwerk" show sponsored by the Hamburg's own Jever beer company. The display brought out aaahs and the oooohs from the crowds on the riverbank as the rain of glowing red, blue, green and purple fireworks with thunder lit up the air and shone on every ship at anchor on the Elbe. Seconds after the fireworks ended all the ships blared their horns in unison. The sound and the sights will live on in mind for many summers.


TRAVEL INFORMATION: Useful websites: Hamburg is an open, vibrant metropolis on the water that offers something for every taste. The port of Hamburg is located by the river Elbe – just like Klong Toey, the port of Bangkok is situated by the Chao Phraya river. http://www.marketing.hamburg.de/ http://www.hamburg-tourismus.de/ Getting There: Turkish Airlines operates seven days a week from Bangkok to Istanbul with two daily onward connections to Hamburg.For more information call tel: 02 231 0311 or visit http://www.thy.com/ Where to stay:Lindner Hotel Am Michel, Neanderstr. 2020549 Hamburg, GermanyTel +49 40 307067000, http://www.lindner.de/ A stylish new well equipped four star property. Member of the Lindner Hotels & Resorts. Built in typical Hanseatic style with a red-brick façade. Located in the historic centre of the city, only 200 metres from St Michael's church and walking distance from the Elbe river and the jetties.

Hotel Atlantic Kempinski HamburgAn der Alster 72-79 20099 Tel: +49 40 28880Hotel http://www.kempinski.atlantic.de/ The Kempinski Hotel Atlantic has been Hamburg's leading hotel since it first opened it's doors in 1909 as a grand hotel for ocean liners passengers. Guests include Emperor Haile Selassie, Edith Piaf and Sir Mick Jagger.

Where to Eat:Fischereihafen RestaurantGroße Elbstraße 143, Altona, Tel: +49 40 381816, http://www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de/Inconspicuously situated between two warehouses and close to the fish market. Both traditional and exotic fish and seafood dishes are available, as is a fine choice of wines. The window seats offer great views of the River ElbeWhere to shop:Stilwerk Hamburg Große Elbstrasse 68 , Tel: +49 40 306210, http://www.stilwerk.de/ Germany's first department store for design. The mecca for trendsetters in all matters of lifestyle.

Hanseviertel, Europapassage, Jungfernstieg, Mönckeberg and Spitalerstrasse are five high end shopping areas that magically attract all those who want to take back home with them more than just nice memories in digital form.